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A fashion show, presented in two very different styles, Italian designer Riccardo Tisci finally took a bold step in Burberry's second series.

British luxury brand Burberry released the 2019 autumn and winter series in London at 1 am on February 18th, Beijing time, and broadcasted for the first time through WeChat applet. After the show, Burberry February B Series limited edition "Title" Telte limited edition handbags in the brand The WeChat boutique was released 24 hours a day, and the deadline for publication was sold out.

It is worth noting that Burberry's big show showed two completely different scenes and music during the live broadcast, which made the Internet viewers think that the signal had a problem. But in fact, this is the intentional arrangement of Riccardo Tisci.

After Riccardo Tisci released his first Burberry show in September last year, the second series of the Burberry 2019 autumn and winter series was launched with the theme of “Tempest Tempest”, inspired by the streets and nobles of London in the 1990s. At the time, Riccardo Tisci was also attending the Saint Martins College of Art in London, England. In order to highlight the opposition between the street and the nobility, the whole show is divided into two parts, one by the supermodel Gigi Hadid, the series is full of sportswear with TB logo, loose sweatpants, hoodies and sports shoes. The opening model on the other side is Natalia Vodianova, dressed in a classic Burberry brand trench coat, shirt and pleated skirt.

Burberry's show at the Tate Modern Gallery on the Thames in London has also been divided into two different spaces, one is a gold-plated, palatial palace, and the other is set with silver scaffolding, hundreds of Street London teenagers climbed on the scaffolding and cheered.

Riccardo Tisci, 44, said in an interview after the show that his main purpose in Burberry's first series was to develop a new alphabet for the brand, and now he will start putting these "letters" together and writing them. A new chapter in Burberry.

In his new series of show notes, he emphasized that London fashion in the 1990s was a class-class carnival, with both street-style big jackets and sweatpants, as well as aristocratic dresses and coats. "I have been thinking, From the distinction of class to the pursuit of freedom, how do these elements coexist?"

Prior to the show, Riccardo Tisci specially invited director Marc Isaacs to film the documentary "On The Street", randomly visiting consumers' impressions of Burberry on the streets of the UK. Some expressed their preference for Burberry, and some young consumers said that they had not heard of it. Over Burberry, this may be one of the reasons why Riccardo Tisci has set up a special show for young people.

Overall, the Burberry 2019 Fall/Winter collection targets four different consumer groups, girls and boys, and women and men. Riccardo Tisci explained that the younger generation is now communicating with different people, some are price sensitive, while others value demand, which is very useful for their future creativity.

However, for Riccardo Tisci's slightly "split" fashion show, the industry's evaluation also tends to two extreme views.

New York Times analyst Adam Tschorn believes that Riccardo Tisci's deliberate decomposition of a series into two parts is a good trend, whether it is right or not means that the designer is looking for a new way out for Burberry, in today's street culture. Under repression, people are eagerly awaiting the arrival of a real storm. However, some people in the industry think that Burberry's new series is confusing, including dividing the show into two different spaces to highlight the difference in grades. The cruel fact of the current industry is that people are more willing to receive clear and clear signals.

In fact, looking back at Riccardo Tisci's career as a designer, it's not hard to find that fashion commentators may be misunderstood about Burberry's first series of "safety cards." During the 12-year tenure of Givenchy, Riccardo Tisci created a new era for the brand, and launched a number of explosions including dog-head T-shirts before the street trend invaded the luxury world, and continued to be sought after by young consumers. Make Givenchy one of the most fashionable luxury brands.

It is reported that during the period of Riccardo Tisci's power, Givenchy has increased its brand size by more than six times. The current annual sales have reached 500 million euros, and the number of employees has increased from 290 in 2005 to more than 930. In 2014, Riccardo Tisci moved the Givenchy fashion show from Paris to New York.

In March of last year, Burberry CEO Marco Gobbetti said that when he announced the appointment of the new creative director, he hoped that the design of streetwear and high fashion through Riccardo Tisci would attract more young consumers to the brand.

Riccardo Tisci's approach is more gradual than the radical moves of Celine and Bottega Veneta, which also changed the new creative director. Under the premise of keeping marketing tools young and respecting the brand history, he made new changes to the brand logo and print patterns, and then covered new prints on outdoor billboards, art installations, buses and shops around the world, emphasizing consumers. A new image of Burberry.

On the channel, Riccardo Tisci also retains the “see-and-buy” strategy left by the Christopher Bailey era, extending further to launch new products on a monthly basis, and is available 24 hours a day via social media platforms such as Instagram, WeChat, Line and KakaoTalk. The way to fully stimulate consumer curiosity and desire to buy.

According to the fashion headline statistics, Burberry launched the limited-edition "B Series" series in September last year, and it was sold out in the brand WeChat small program boutique every time, whether it is a T-shirt with a price of 4,000 yuan. On the tens of thousands of handbags, this is enough to prove that the brand's popularity is picking up step by step.

However, investors are still confused about the combination of Riccardo Tisci and Marco Gobbetti to lead Burberry back to the luxury first gradient.

Earlier, some analysts believe that Buberry's continued sluggish performance may mean that the new team led by Marco Gobbetti and Riccardo Tisci does not have enough strength to allow more consumers to buy branded products, and the entire luxury industry is facing global economic growth. The trend of easing the weak demand of Chinese consumers is even worse. Among the top ten luxury goods and apparel companies in Europe released by Bloomberg at the end of last year, Burberry and Hermès Group are “the same”, among the analysts ranked the lowest, with 16 recommended, 4 recommended, 3 Buying is recommended, so some analysts believe that the continued weakness of the stock price may eventually make Burberry a new acquisition target for other giants.

In addition, Burberry's development in recent years has not been smooth, and its performance has been declining since 2016. According to the fashion headline data, Burberry's profit has declined for three consecutive years, and it will not resume growth until 2017. In the third quarter ended Dec. 29, 2018, Burberry's sales fell 1% year-on-year to 711 million pounds, same-store sales increased 1%, and there is no significant improvement, gross margin and profit and other detailed data Not yet announced.

In the face of successive doubts in the market, Marco Gobbetti stressed in the latest financial report that although the overall income is still declining, Burberry recorded a single-digit percentage increase in this key market in China, and “B Series” also won The market responded positively and received the attention of 57 million consumers in social media.

In December last year, Burberry announced through the official account of Weibo that Chinese actor and director Zhao Wei was the brand new spokesperson, and said that Zhou Dongyu will continue to cooperate with the brand as a spokesperson. It is noteworthy that Wu Yifan, the spokesperson of Burberry signed in 2016, became the Louis Vuitton brand spokesperson on October 31 last year, while foreign media reported that Wu Yifan was the biggest contributor to Burberry's performance growth.

At a time when social media, e-commerce, millennials and street fashion continue to reshape the new look of luxury brands, Marco Gobbetti and Riccardo Tisci are trying to reproduce Gucci's myth of turning over, but with the increasing uncertainty of the global luxury fashion industry The next step for Burberry is still unknown.

After the big show was released, Burberry shares rose 0.1% to 19.55 pounds. In the past six months, its share price has fallen by 13%, and the current market value is about 8 billion pounds.

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