SOME/THINGS MAGAZINE Interview with designer brand ziggy chen

Crossing the ocean, others gesture. Not far away, dear sailor. Not cold, just a little. Just reach out and spread your slender arms. When we are closely linked, the world stops turning. Captured by its eternal action, Jian Yu conquered the tower-like waves. In a flash, we belong to each other. The sea is a witness for you and me. Lift us up to the mature and mature sea breeze. Reunion, lost, to be found again. . . The world is changing. When Atlas shrugs, we ask ourselves what is left of it. To establish a certain order in chaos, we must keep in mind our own traditional heritage. You can't tell the future, if you don't realize that it was the journey that led you to this point, the moment. Ziggy Chen built a secluded fortress in the contemporary science and technology city. What we see is a man who is driven by faith. He is polite, sincere and outspoken, with a true sense of purity. Ziggy walks at his own pace, opens the door he wants to open, and follows his intuition. His precise completion has made his creation unique, but he still retains a sense of hungry for exquisite craftsmanship and genuine tailoring. In his studio in Shanghai, here are the conversations that have been going on in the past few months...

layman. To reorganize one's body position in the future, one must learn from the past. What significant things did you learn during your young age?

I grew up in the 80s, experienced primary and secondary schooling in the 1980s, worked for a year, and entered university in 1990. The 1980s was the most special and memorable 10 years for me. During that decade, with the reform and opening up of China, many fresh things were suddenly put in front of them overnight. Rock music, jeans, science fiction movies, and personal Listening and martial arts novels include Nietzsche and Freud.... I have never forgotten that this immense stimulus and energy given to me in the 1980s has also profoundly affected all aspects of my life, including of course for various things. This immense stimulus has completely surpassed the so-called education. Then when I gradually entered middle age, I suddenly realized that I was chasing these sensations while rejecting and despising our own traditional culture. We need to feel inwardly. The beauty of those traditions.

pagan. Without history, there is no us. Which Chinese dynasty is you most admired?

Song. My favorite dynasty. China has many different dynasties and also represents different beauty (I don't want to look at this issue from the perspective of history and philosophy). After all, aesthetics are the most direct. From the implicit and restrained Song Dynasty paintings to the simple and elegant Ding Kiln white porcelain, Song's aesthetic is the beauty of China in my heart.

pawn. Fashion is a repeated cycle of ecology. How do you think about this issue?

I don't think this is a very important thing. In my opinion, fashion and clothes are two different things. The fashion industry needs to be popular. This is a business. We all need new clothes, new designs, new stimuli ... but our own body on the other hand does not change. It is a challenge for designers. So the industry needs concepts, stories and styling to sell more clothes. In the past few years, I have been thinking that for this world, there are too many clothes, and the fashion changes quickly, and clothes will be more. But people do not need so much clothes in essence. Everyone needs fashion? So, if you can get your clothes out a decade ago, this is a good thing. I am not interested in fashion trends, but I am obsessed with all past things. In the past I can see many beautiful things. The beauty that comes from time is the true beauty. Actually, a piece of clothing can be worn for many years. The old one has old beauty. I hope my clothes can be worn for a longer time.

ceiling. Speaking is listening. Is fashion a sincere conversation?

Indeed, when the clothes are worn on the body, they participate in the dialogue. The so-called appearance of people is the importance of clothes in a social society. Is this true? I often contradict myself. My own job is to make clothes. But I always feel that clothes are not so important in life. There are too many important things and things that are more important than clothes. And judging by the information sent by the appearance alone is not enough. I don't think fashion is so important. People with strong hearts do not need external added value. Regarding beauty, I believe that everyone's taste and preferences are different. Clothes only represent your own tastes and preferences. Therefore, those who think they can represent fashion are a bit strange to me. For example: I agree with Steve Jobs and Zuckerberg's attitude towards clothes.

entity. If you return to the garment itself, if you look at your creative process, how do you combine initial research with your own inspiration?

After I was forty years old, I decided to go for clothes. At this time, I actually did not understand the techniques of pattern printing and clothing. I just had a strong desire to do this thing. So after the decision was made, it was also the beginning of a new study. Then, a lot of old clothes are seen. From the men's jackets of Europe in the 17th century, the gowns of the 1920s were seen in China, and the Boro from the poor people of the Japanese people saw the British military uniforms during World War I. This process is very satisfying. Strong satisfaction. In addition, working with a printmaker and superb sewing staff made me learn to look at clothes from another perspective. For a designer or a dresser, the techniques of structure and sewing are like the language of expression. Your thoughts and attitude towards clothes are expressed through these languages, so I want to go through Try various techniques and find your own way of speaking. This is my idea of ​​clothing technology.

WWW. Fast, instant activists, fast-paced lives, where time goes. . . Do you think we change the way we interact with the world?

Not just the rhythm of the fashion industry, the rhythm of the world is really fast. Everyone seems to be waiting for the latest things, but what is new? Everyone is waiting for something called popular, but is the importance of popularity, or is everyone's personality more important? I think I can't change the world, but I can let me go at my own pace, because I believe that everyone should have their own personality, and clothes are subordinate to the personality. Everyone should have his own way to get along with this world.

source. What does "Made in China" symbolize today?

I personally did not think about this issue. From the perspective of our own brands, where production is not important is to facilitate quality control. Our fabrics are mainly produced in Italy and Japan because of the fabric designers I like. The aesthetic things are very easy to communicate. The prototypes and the big goods are produced in Shanghai because I live in Shanghai, it is easy to control the quality, and I I have deep feelings with my workers. They also know what I want. I also tried to produce in Italy, but it's better to look around. Manufacturing in China, on the other hand, is a very broad issue. I actually do not care about the origin. From the consumer's perspective, I care about quality and beauty rather than place of origin.

logic. In architecture, each line has its own function. Do you follow this dogma?

In the basic version, only one goal is to obey the structure and lines of the human body. When it comes to clothing style, there will be obedience and dialogue between all the lines and the human body. So from this perspective, it is true that all lines should have his function. I believe this doctrine.

male. How do you manage a sincere men's wardrobe?

Simplify and increase efficiency. What kind of clothes are in my closet before the age of 40? Suddenly one day I feel too much clothes. In fact, many clothes are not worn. It takes time to find the clothes to wear every day. I decided to simplify the wardrobe only. Put on the clothes that will be worn. I put the clothes I will not wear in almost ten cartons. Now I am very satisfied with the past few years, simple and convenient to save time. First of all, you should understand your style of dress and philosophy, and simplify the types of colors and clothes. My wardrobe is divided into three categories, the usual daily clothes, basically a suit shirt T-shirt pants and winter coat. The clothes worn at home are mainly zipper shirts and trousers T-shirts which are comfortable and easy to wash, and there are also one type of running clothes. The color is basically black and a small amount of gray, white and blue. There are few changes in style, which can reduce the time considered. Favorite styles can have two or three pieces that can be worn for rotation.

Revisit. Life has undergone tremendous changes, politics and history, turning the world into an extremely active place. Which part of your life has the most profound influence on you?

When I think about it, the most important thing for me is the entire 1980s. I still remember clearly that even in the air, there was a sense of freedom. So far I still remember many of the thrills and shocks I brought to me for the first time, from skinny jeans to rock music from the West, and footage of the TV series crossing the zebra crossing and the sci-fi movie “The Future of the World” for the first time. . Now, when you go to Tokyo, most of you will be staying at the Tokyu Hotel in Shibuya. What I like most about this hotel is that you can fully see the people crossing the zebra crossing in Shibuya. Every time I remember the shot I saw on television. I think in the eighties I will stay with me all the time. What brought me in the 1980s was freedom of thought. My understanding of myself and the most important thing was to become me now.

Palindrome. If the democratic design is taken into account, the story being told, the costume speaks for itself, and no framework is needed. How do you relate to the single product you make?

Representing me on the beauty, let me see that my taste is embodied, represents my emotions, and changes in mood. I want to let these clothes carry my emotions and let other people feel it. Seasonal clothing is actually recording my emotions and it is also a challenge for self. At the beginning of each series, I was full of expectation for them. In the process, they embrace each other and depend on each other. When they are finished, they calmly keep away from each other. This process is repeated. Each series is a record of a process, but also a process of research and self-awareness.

Our Lady. Go to the distance, find everything you need, and see for yourself what time will bring. Will you invest a lot of time thinking about the future?

Of course I think of the future. There are still many things waiting for me to try. What I mean is not about clothes, but about experiencing the world and exploring the planet.

compression. What made Ziggy today?

This is really hard to answer. But I always believe that each individual is special, including myself. I think everyone's experience, the environment of life, and the influence of society include genetics, shaping each person's own personality, as well as aesthetics, taste, and ways of seeing things. If we must find out, it is curiosity. This is also the key factor that has driven me to stick to it.